Showing posts with label altitude. Show all posts
Showing posts with label altitude. Show all posts

Thursday, October 02, 2014

Husky Dog Sledding - Juneau Ice Field, Alaska




High up on the Juneau Ice Field In Alaska a husky dog camp had been setup to offer authentic husky dog sled rides on the snow-capped glacier, rather than through wooded trails as sometimes offered in other locations lower down the mountain.

To get to this location you had to take an exciting helicopter ride from Juneau, which in itself was a tremendous experience giving you the most incredible perspective of the mountainous geography of this region.





Leaving the heliport in Juneau the helicopter flew down the narrow fjord, where the cruise ships were docked at Juneau, then headed round the coastline to the start of the gigantic Juneau glacier field. The view from the helicopter was spectacular with an unsurpassed viewpoint of the steep fjord walls, waterfalls and numerous sea inlets.






The Juneau Icefield is an ice field located just north of Juneau, Alaska and continues north through the border with British Columbia and is the fifth-largest ice field in the Western Hemisphere, extending through an area of 3,900 square kilometres (1,500 sq mi) in the Coast Range ranging 140 km (87 mi) north to south and 75 km (47 mi) east to west. The icefield is the source of many glaciers including the Mendenhall Glacier and the Taku Glacier.




The icefield is home to over 40 large valley glaciers and 100 smaller ones. The Icefield serves as a tourist attraction with many travellers flown in by helicopter for quick walks on the 240-to-1,400-metre (790 to 4,590 ft) deep ice and the massive, awe-inspiring crevasses. The icefield, like many of its glaciers, reached its maximum glaciation point around 1700 and has been in retreat since. In fact, of the icefield's 19 notable glaciers, the Taku Glacier is the only one presently advancing. Much of the icefield is contained within the Tongass National Forest. Since 1948, the Juneau Icefield Research Program has monitored glaciers of the Juneau Icefield. On the west side of the icefield, from 1946-2009, the terminus of the Mendenhall Glacier has retreated over 700 metres (0.43 mi).

As we neared the sled dog camp up on the Juneau glacier you could only see small dots on the snow but as we landed on the snow we could then see a small camp comprising tents for the mushers (sled dog handlers) and small igloo-shaped kennels for the husky sled dogs.








We were met by the mushers who had been spending the last week or so living up on the glacier with the dogs. The dogs were all so excited and barked constantly knowing they were soon to be out there on the snow pulling our sleds. After a brief introduction to the sled and the basic techniques of mushing we were soon on the sleds and being pulled by a team of around 10 husky dogs through the snow.





Sled dogs (also sledge dogs and sleigh dogs) are a group of dog breeds and mongrels that, historically, were bred for the purpose of pulling a dog sled. These dog sleds were important for transportation in arctic areas, hauling supplies in areas that were inaccessible by other methods. They were used with varying success in the explorations of both poles, as well as during the Alaskan gold rush. Until snowmobiles became reliable, sled dog teams delivered mail to rural communities in Alaska and northern Canada.

Sled dogs today are still used by some rural communities, especially in areas of Alaska and Canada and throughout Greenland. They are also used for recreational purposes, and are raced in events known as dog sled races such as the Iditarod and the Yukon Quest. Numerous sled dog breeds are also kept as pets or raised as show dogs.





We took turns to stand at the rear of the sled and act as brake man which was a really authentic experience. The dogs were incredibly enthusiastic and obviously enjoyed their job.

At one point we stopped to change positions on the sled and noticed a peculiar red coloration in the snow. This looked like there had been something killed in the snow but in actual fact was a red coloured algae known as watermelon snow.

Watermelon snow, also called snow algae, red snow, or blood snow, is Chlamydomonas nivalis, a species of green algae containing a secondary red carotenoid pigment (astaxanthin) in addition to chlorophyll. Unlike most species of fresh-water algae, it is cryophilic (cold-loving) and thrives in freezing water. Its specific epithet, nivalis, is from Latin and refers to snow.

This type of snow is common during the summer in alpine and coastal polar regions worldwide, such as the Sierra Nevada of California. Here, at altitudes of 10,000 to 12,000 feet (3,000–3,600 m), the temperature is cold throughout the year, and so the snow has lingered from winter storms. Compressing the snow by stepping on it or making snowballs leaves it looking red. Walking on watermelon snow often results in getting bright red soles and pinkish pant cuffs.




Dog sledding and it's not only an Alaskan tradition, but also a state obsession, one that's celebrated every March with the running of the 1,150-mile Iditarod Sled Dog Race from Anchorage to Nome.





After our dog sledding trip around the upper part of the glacier under the mountains we returned to the camp at which point our musher took the opportunity to introduce us to the dogs who had pulled us. The lead dog "Doc" was a stunning looking dog with bright blue eyes and a great character. All the other dogs were friendly and all had different personalities.










As the helicopters arrived back on the glacier we knew it was time to say our farewell to the dogs and the mushers, leave this remote location and return to Juneau. As we flew back the weather started to deteriorate so we were very lucky to have had the opportunity to complete this excursion.

It was an unforgettable experience and probably one of the highlights of our visit to Alaska.




Saturday, March 30, 2013

The Most Dangerous Airport in the World


Lukla Airport, now known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport, is rated as one of the most dangerous airports in the world and a program titled "Most Extreme Airports" broadcast in the History Channel in 2010, rated the airport as the most dangerous airport in the world.

So this was to be our arrival point for this start of our 7 day Himalayan trek up the Everest Base Camp trail - as if the trek was not hard enough we had to survive the landing and then the take-off from this incredible runway.


The airport is popular because Lukla is the place where most people start the climb to Mount Everest Base Camp. There are daily flights between Lukla and Kathmandu during daylight hours, in good weather. Although the flying distance is short, rain commonly occurs in Lukla while the sun is shining brightly in Kathmandu. High winds, cloud cover and changing visibility often mean flights can be delayed or the airport closed completely. The airport is contained within a chain link fence and patrolled by the Nepali armed police or civil police around the clock.


The airport's paved asphalt runway is only accessible to helicopters and small, fixed-wing, short-takeoff-and-landing aircraft, such as the De Havilland Canada DHC-6 Twin Otter or Dornier Do 228. Tara Air also operates two Pilatus PC-6 Turbo Porter aircraft that visit Lukla on a charter basis. The runway is 460 by 20 m (1,510 by 66 ft) with a 12% gradient. The elevation of the airport is 2,800 m (9,200 ft).


Aircraft can only use runway 06 for landings and runway 24 for takeoffs. Due to the terrain, there is no prospect of a successful go-around on short final. There is high terrain immediately after the northern end of the runway and a steeply angled drop, of about 2,000 m (6,600 ft) at the southern end of the runway, into the valley below. The apron has four stands and there is one helipad located 140 m (460 ft) from the control tower. No landing aids are available and the only air traffic service is an Aerodrome Flight Information Service.

The video below shows a typical landing at the airport.

Monday, November 05, 2012

The Roof of Borneo - Mount Kinabalu


Mount Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysia on the island of Borneo in South East Asia is an awesome mountain towering over the surrounding jungles at a height of 4,095m. It sits within the Kinabalu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is home to a myriad of botanical and biological species covering a number of distinct eco-regions from the lower semi-tropical jungle up to alpine environment close to the summit. Having climbed some of the Mesilau Trail earlier this year I finally decided it was time to attempt the summit so at the end of October, and luckily coinciding with a full moon, myself and a few others travelled to Kota Kinabalu for the 2 day climb.

To climb Mount Kinabalu there are two trails you can take; either the Timpohon Trail from the main park Head Quarters or the Mesilau Trail which is somewhat longer at 8km. The Timpohon Trail which runs from the Kinabalu Park Head Quarters up to Laban Rata resthouse is 6km long, which doesn't sound long but the gradients are steep (from 1,564m at park HQ to 3,272m at Laban Rata) and the terrain extremely rough and rocky making it a tough climb in around 5 hours or more.


Magic Mountain
Our base for the climb was Magic Mountain, where I had stayed on my previous trip to the area. Run by Peter Achleitner and his wife Lily this guesthouse close to the park HQ, under the east ridge of Mount Kinabalu, offered comfortable rooms and more importantly some great home cooking including home baked bread, cured ham and bacon, salami and locally grown herbs and spices. A great way indeed to prepare for our climb and of course to rejuvenate our bodies post-climb. Peter is a great source of local information and offered us plenty of excellent advice and recommendations for our stay. He also keeps a good collection of wine and some excellent German beer which was greatly appreciated on our return after the 2 days up the mountain.







Park HQ to Laban Rata
We decided to take the shorter Timpohon Trail route (a wise decision in retrospect!) and after arriving at the park HQ, where we registered, were transferred to Timpohon Gate to start our climb at around 9:30 in the morning. As you climb on Day 1 towards the Laban Rata resthouse at 3,272m you pass through varying types of vegetation from large tropical trees at the lowers levels to small shrub-like trees and alpine plants at the higher elevations. In many places you are walking through mist and clouds.



Laban Rata
Laban Rata is the main accommodation hut on Mount Kinabalu at a height of 3,272m and is the usual overnight stop used by climbers prior to doing the final ascent to the Low's Peak summit. There are a number of private rooms but the bulk of the accommodation comprises 6-man dormitory bunk rooms. A restaurant offers breakfast, dinner and supper. Due to cable damage, apparently back in 2009, the dormitory rooms are unheated and there is no hot water but luckily we had clear weather for our climb so arrived at Laban Rata dry. We arrived at around 3pm in the afternoon after the 6km up from the Park HQ in time for an early dinner at 5:30pm, in bed by 7:30pm and then up by 2:00am the next morning to make the final push on the summit.

Laban Rata to Low's Peak
From Laban Rata resthouse to the summit of Low's peak, the highest point of Mount Kinabalu, is a steep trail of 2.7km rising a total height of 823m. Leaving Laban Rata at 2:30am in the morning, after a few hours of rest in a 6-man dormitory, the first portion of the final summit trail consisted of hundreds of steep steps rising up through the last of the vegetation. Moving up using just the small beam from your headlight and trying to suck in the thin air as you struggled with the gradients is a tough experience. We were lucky that it was a full moon which illuminated the whole mountain creating a surreal experience. Soon we reached a steep granite rock slope where we then had to use ropes to assist us climbing up till we reached the final rest hut, Sayat Sayat, at 3,668m. From here to the summit was a steady steep slope over the large granite slabs of rock. I struggled with this last section as by now altitude sickness was causing me to gasp for breath and required frequent stops to regain my breath and get the heart rate down. Just after dawn at 5:50am I completed the last steep scramble up the rocky peak and reached the summit for a magnificent view over the other mountain peaks of Kinabalu and down to the coastline of north Borneo where we could see the lights of Kota Kinabalu and the sea.
Low's Peak Summit
As you sit on the summit you see the other peaks of the mountain including, Alexandra Peak, St John's Peak, South Peak, Donkey Ears Peak, Ugly Sister Peak, King Edward Peak and Tunku Abdul Rahman Peak. Just to one side of the summit is the heart wrenching sheer drop down Low's Gully which is an 1,800m deep gorge on the north side of the mountain, one of the least explored and most inhospitable places on earth. In 1994 two British Army officers were severely criticised after having led a party of 10 adventurers that required extensive rescue efforts from both the RAF and the Malaysian army. Five members of the party were trapped for 16 days and did not eat for five days before being rescued. The breakaway party of five successfully completed the world's first descent of the gully in three days.
Low's Peak to Laban Rata The euphoria of reaching the summit was soon dampened by the thought that I had now to climb down that day all the way to the park HQ. So after only 15 minutes or so at the summit I started the laborious and difficult way down initially to Laban Rata for breakfast prior to the gruelling 6km down to the park HQ. Going down was difficult given the steep slopes and the need to be ultra careful. One slip or mistake could be dangerous; the last thing you needed was a silly ankle strain or worse at this height. Going down I had the opportunity now to see and photograph the magnificent mountain peaks which we could now see clearly in the early morning light. We reached Laban Rata at around 7:45am and by then my legs were shaking and feeling like jelly.
Laban Rata to Park HQ After a good breakfast and a rest it was time to make our way down the long 6km to the park HQ, again being ultra careful about our footing as the large boulders and sharp rocks could have caused a nasty injury had we fallen. Again we passed through a great deal of cloud and mist which helped to cool us. One of the strange sights I saw was the cloud and mist hitting the small stunted trees and then condensing on the leaves causing rain to fall - on one occasion I saw a tree in the middle of the trail and it was raining just under the train as you passed - amazing! We eventually reached the park HQ at just after 2pm in the afternoon - we had been walking now for around 12 hours since the early start at 2:30 am. Probably the hardest bit for me was the last 50m as this was an uphill section to reach the Timpohon Gate and by that time I had reached "The Wall". However it was a great feeling to complete this climb and after some lunch and a much needed (and expensive!) beer I was feeling good again. We collected our certificates and then headed back to rest prior to our return to KL. To put this climb into perspective a notice at the end of the trail highlighted the record times for the annual mountain race up Mount Kinabalu .... I still cannot believe how it can be done in this time!
Porters of Kinabalu
One of the most amazing things we saw during our 2 day climb was observing the many porters transporting goods up and down the mountain. Everything needed up at the Laban Rata rest house at 3,272m on Mount Kinabalu needs to be transported up the mountain using the local Dusun porters; food, drinks, dried goods, cooking materials, plumbing materials, water tanks, electrical equipment, bedding, linens, etc. These local porters are a wonder to see as they slowly but surely pass you with their heavy loads carried on a simple wooden backplate with string shoulder straps and head strap,as you struggle up (or down) the slope. There are even women porters who are incredibly strong and some of the loads these porters carry can be 30 - 50kg or more. One amazing sight I saw on our descent from the mountain was being passed by a porter carrying a small Asian lady down the mountain who obviously had made it up but could not make the descent. The cost of this is service is apparently around RM300 per km. It crossed my mind at the time that perhaps I should have considered that!

Video Slideshow