Here is the complete collection of all my Nepal blog postings for easy reference including an annotated picture of the Himalayan peaks as viewed from Tengboche Monastery, Tengboche, Nepal.
Showing posts with label Namche Bazaar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Namche Bazaar. Show all posts
Monday, April 15, 2013
The Complete Nepal Collection
Here is the complete collection of all my Nepal blog postings for easy reference including an annotated picture of the Himalayan peaks as viewed from Tengboche Monastery, Tengboche, Nepal.
Friday, April 05, 2013
The Trail to Tengboche - Day 6 - Namche Bazaar to Phakding
After a good night's rest at the Panorama Hotel in Namche Bazaar it was time to start the trek back down the steep trail towards the Dudh Kosi River again. The weather was cloudy as we left Namche so it was not ideal for photography. People were already out herding dzo or goats, sweeping the path outside their house or washing clothes - no rest here for these hardy locals. Soon we passed the check point at the outskirts of Namche Bazaar then it was on down to the river.
The steep trail down from Namche Bazaar back down to the Dudh Kosi River was made in good time. As the weather was cloudy so we couldn't see Mount Everest from the viewpoint as we had seen on on the way up. Again we had to cross the exciting high suspension bridge, again crowded with trekkers, dzo, goats and porters.
It was then a good relatively flat walk back down the river and across a couple of more suspension bridges to Jorasalle and Monjo. Although overcast the river views were beautiful making it a pleasant walk. We made Monjo in good time and stopped at the Mount Kailash Lodge for lunch, just in time as the rain had now started.
After lunch the rain persisted so we donned our wet weather gear and set out for the last 2 hours towards Phakding. It was a wet, cold and miserable trek back to Phakding where once again we stayed at the Royal (not-so-Royal) Sherpa Lodge. It was a struggle to get our wet gear dried out, with us all huddled round the single log fire in the middle of the main room. Once again it was a cold night with no hot water or shower.
The Trail to Tengboche - Day 5 - Tengboche to Namche Bazaar
As dawn broke in Tengboche the chanting sounds from the monastery resumed so I was up and out to capture the early morning light. I was glad to be up and moving to keep warm as it had been an uncomfortable night in the unheated room (or freezer!). Outside the air was sub zero and there was ice and snow on the ground as I climbed a small ridge behind Tengboche to hopefully get a better view of Mount Everest and a panoramic view over Tengboche. In the early morning blue light the mountains looked spectacular with Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar and Ama Dablam all standing our clearly.
The climb up the small ridge had left me absolutely breathless - at this altitude the least bit of exercise was really difficult due to the reduced oxygen. The local sherpas have a significant advantage in that their haemoglobin can carry around 50% more oxygen than other people …. I spoke to a climber heading up towards Everest Base Camp and he called it cheating! As I headed back into Tengboche the early morning light was wonderful as I took in all the mountains surrounding this area, the peaks bathed in a bright golden light as if they were on fire.
Later in the morning as the light grew stronger large trains of yaks could be seen heading through the village, past the monastery and on down the trail back to Namche Bazaar to collect more goods to bring up hill. The yaks could be differentiated from the dzo seen commonly on the trails by their heavier build and large, thick hair. Yak physiology is well adapted to high altitudes, having larger lungs and heart than cattle found at lower altitudes, as well as greater capacity for transporting oxygen through their blood. Conversely, yaks do not thrive at lower altitudes, and begin to suffer from heat exhaustion above 15 deg C. This is why we only really saw yaks from Namche Bazaar and higher. Further adaptations to the cold include a thick layer of subcutaneous fat and an almost total lack of sweat glands.
Soon it was time to start the slow return trek back down the steep gradient to the Dudh Kosi River, over the suspension bridge then back up the other side and on to Namche Bazaar ... it was going to be a long and arduous day. Heading down the hill was a lot faster than the upward struggle the day before and soon we were back down at the river for a brief tea stop before crossing the river and tackling the climb back up the trail at the other side.
The climb up the trail at the other side of the river was very steep and unrelenting. Due to the lack of oxygen and the cold I had come down with the previous day I was really struggling for air and eventually had to relent and give my camera bag to the porter. He simple popped this on top of the rucksack he was already carrying and nonchalantly walked up the hill - amazing!
We stopped for lunch of noodles and a rest at a small village at the very top of the steep slope and before the relatively flat section that ran on to Namche Bazaar. I actually ordered a coke to go with my noodles - having not drunk a coke in the last ten years I was somewhat surprised but my body was apparently craving the sugar rush. By the time we were getting close to Namche Bazaar the clouds had come down and visibility was reduced. It was a welcome relief to once again stay at the Panorama hotel where a hot shower was most appreciated, some good food and a night in a good bed with an electric blanket.
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